The coaming was next on the list. I took the template I had from my Point Bennett and reduced it in both length and width. This one is pretty snug to my hips.
I toyed with the idea of making a steam bent laminated coaming but decided to go with a Yost-style plywood setup. It consists of a 1/2" baseplate and a 3/4" + 1/2" spacer and lip combination.(See details below)
 |
| Checking out the template. |
Using the template, I marked and cut the 3/4" spacer from Russian Birch plywood. I then used the spacer to mark off the lip on the 1/2" plywood. I increased the width of the lip to 1 1/2".
 |
| Gluing up the 3/4" + 1/2" spacer/lip combo. Baseplate against the wall on the right. |
1/2" is too thick for a coaming lip so I decided to router out the lip and bring it down to 1/4" thickness. Using a DIY router table I made about 20 years ago, I reduced down the lip. Now the spacer is 1" thick with a 1/4" lip on top
 |
| The underside of the coaming lip. The 1/2" lip has been trimmed down to 1/4" which then increased the spacer to 1". |
 |
| Baseplate and coaming laid in place. |
 |
| Test fit. Looks good so far! |
 |
| Looking aft. |
 |
| Looking aft. |
Before attaching the baseplate, I need to make two stanchions that will support the coaming at the sides. This will greatly increase the stiffness of the coaming and provide added strength at points where extra strain is put on the coaming during entry and exit of the boat.
Are those cross-cut sections of pvc pipe that you're using for clamps?
ReplyDeleteSteve B.
Steve: Yes they are - Schedule 40 is the nickname on them bcauase that is the number stamped on the pipe.. I came across the idea on another kayak building site and I've been using them regularly. They crop up all over my blog entries. Very versatile and, if you over-extend them, i.e., make the mouth too wide, you can simply squeeze them back together and they regain their initial clamping strength.
ReplyDeleteSean