The C-Monster's New Paddle

A fellow paddler, I'll just call him The C-Monster, asked if I would make him a Greenland paddle. I really like making paddles but lately have not had any reason to do so. This was my excuse to start a new project.

I'm not going to outline the build as it is pretty much standard . . . 

Still working out of the dining room

Schedule 40 clamps on the loom. Western Red Cedar sandwiched in between Spruce.

All glued up and ready for shaping.

Weight before any shaping - 85oz!

Using a power planer for the initial shaping.

Forming the taper.

Weight after cutting the tapers on the blade - 58 oz.

Add caption

Shaping the blades.

ABS pipe cut to fit.

Once I have the rough shape finished with the power planer, I move onto a small block plane, rasps and sandpaper. Some may frown upon the use of the power planer, but it works wonders - very fast wonders - when you need to remove lots of wood, quickly!!  If you are careful, it does a great job!!  Just don't let your attention lapse or you can easily ruin your work.

I knew that the C-Monster, would be spending time near the rocks, so I offered to put on a plastic tip protector. I have one on my paddle and it does an amazing job of saving the soft wooden tips It also allows you to use a sharper tip on the paddle which makes it a lot quieter in the water.

Showing the inset into the paddle tip.

Plastic being epoxied onto the blade.

Tip after sanding.

Paddle after shaping , sanding and wetting out.

I failed to get a final photo of the paddle before I handed it over to the new owner. I went with the all-black tips - like I have on my paddle.  The paddle is 88", with a 20" loom. The blades are 3 3/8 at the tip. It weighs 31 oz. Like all my paddles, I finished it with Tung Oil.

I hope that the C-Monster gets a lot of good paddling out of this one!!!

From the Archives - The Pre-Black Pearl?

I was sorting through some old photos a few days back when I found these images. I figured they'd be the good basis for a retrospective blog entry. Very timely given the recent launch of my new boat, the Black Pearl.. 

Let the memories (or lack thereof) begin . . . 

Back in the mid 1980's, I happened upon a National Geographic article (sorry I looked but can't find the reference) that had a photo of a traditional Greenland  kayak being constructed. It was simply a picture of the frame lying on the barren rocks.  I would've been in my late teens by this time but I still had the kayak bug from several years prior. See this blog entry for a better explanation

I decided that I was going to build a "traditional" Greenland kayak based on that picture. Having no access to Internet or even books on the subject, I set out on the rather bizarre project.  Actual memories of the construct are very vague at best. It was built outside in the garden. I first drove two posts in the ground at a distance equal to the length of the keel.. Then I drove in a third in the middle slightly lower than the other two. The keel was laid across the two ends posts and then bent down and fastened to the center one to give the boat its rocker. How much, I cannot say!!

I had no plans or drawings so I cannot honestly say how I came up with the hull shape. At the time I did not realize that the ribs were steam bent, so I went with a method, that I now know, is somewhat akin to the one used in the Arctic regions - including Labrador. My ribs  were not one  full piece of wood bent and running sheer to sheer. In my case  it took three pieces of wood to make the "ribs" -  one piece that ran from sheer to chine. Then another that ran from chine to chine across the keel. And a third piece that ran from chine to sheer on the other side. Hard to explain but sorry, not one picture of this build!!  All fastening was done by wooden pegs and wood glue - not even waterproof glue, at that!!

And that is about all I can remember about framing this boat.  The boat was framed up for a while and actually languished out in the backyard for quite some time - perhaps two years??  After this lengthy hiatus I deiced to finally finish the thing - after having spent so much time on it prior!!

The original plan was to cover it in canvas but for some reason that idea was nixed (probably because the  fastening job was beginning to fail due to exposure to rain and snow) and I decided to sheath it up with Masonite - don't ask!!!  I cut the panels, tacked them to the wooden frame and using fiberglass mesh tape  (the kind used in drywall!!!) and fiberglass body filler, I sealed up the seams!! A coat of black pain and we were good to go!!

I feel almost embarrassed in describing this build but it is what it is  - and that is an attempt at building a boat purely based on a single photograph. There were no Internet forums with their almost instantaneous advice, no plethora of online images of how a traditional kayak was built or even what one looked like. I didn't check but I highly doubt the public library had any books on the subject. So that leaves you entirely up to your own "devices"

And what of the boat, itself??  Once I had it painted, my then girlfriend and now wife of 21 years, took it to the pond. That voyage proved to be both its maiden and final all in one!!  Somehow or other, a camera made it to the event and the four images below are all that were even taken of this craft. 

Having proved the craft did, indeed, float and could be paddled, we put it back on the car, drove back to the cabin and promptly deposited it behind the woodshed - where it stayed, rotting,  for a number of years until I chopped it up with a saw. 

True story!!

Young,  foolish and quite dashing, I might add!!

Well, it moves at least!!

The only profile image of this boat. Doesn't look too bad!

Cheryl never left the shore - and I don't blame her!!

Black Pearl Project - Makin' a Foam Masik

I'm still working on customizing the cockpit and the next on the list is the masik. In a traditional wooden framed kayak, the masik is the curved deck beam that supports the front of the cockpit. It also acts as a brace against which to press the knees for better body to boat contact. My boat has no need for the masik as a deck beam but it does require one as a brace.

I made mine out of closed cell foam, a.k.a., interlocking foam floor tiles.

Foam floor tile.

I simply cut three strips about 1.25" wide. I laminated the strips together with Goop.

Strips ready for laminating

I glued up the strips and placed them inside the hull to get the right curvature. After they set up for a few minutes, I pulled out the masik and put on a raft of Schedule 40 clamps to squeeze the strips together tightly as the Goop dried.

Looks like some giant plastic caterpillar!!

After the Goop dried, I used 60 grit sandpaper to round out the edges.

Sanding.

After test fitting a few times, I glued the masik in place using Goop.

Masik in place. Clamp is holding pump holder clips in place while the epoxy dries.

The foam masik gives a very firm support for my thighs - just above the knee. I was noticing that pushing my legs up against the glass inside the deck was not good for my drysuit - the weave is not fully filled with epoxy which leaves a rough surface. Also, the foam is much more comfortable to push against than the wooden deck.  I've yet to try it on the water, but it certainly feels comfy on the land!!

Black Pearl Project - Pump it up!!

With a low volume boat, there's the need to utilize every possible usable space.  On Thursday night I was taking the boat out in wind and wave yet I had not determined where I was to put my pump - a pretty important piece of equipment should I have to exit/re-enter the boat on my own. On a whim I popped the pump directly behind my seat and by chance it managed to stay there the whole time I was on the water. And, of course, this placed the seed in my brain- why not make this THE place to keep my pump??  The ideas started to formulate.

Anybody's who's been following my blog will remember an entry I did back in April 2010 about  a pump bracket I made out of ABS pipe and suction cups. If not, then here's the link - http://justyakkin2.blogspot.ca/2010/04/pvc-chronicles-chapter-second.html

I've used this bracket for two years with great success, so why not try it again - but with a twist!!

Now that air temps are in the "teens", you might as well work outside!!

The brackets are made of 2" ABS pipe with a section cut out. I decided to go with two brackets - one for each end of the pump. In order to affix them to the aft bulkhead, I used 1/2" Russian birch plywood (already proven to be VERY waterproof) as the baseplate. I simply put a 3/4" stainless steel screw through the pipe and into the plywood. Then I sanded the whole lot and put a coat of spray-on truck bed liner to make it match the interior of the cockpit

ABS attached to the plywood base.

I did not want to permanently attach the brackets to the aft bulkhead yet in the event that the pump placement gets in the way of boat entry/exit. I initially tried some industrial grade velcro but it did not work out well. I knew that hot melt glue can make a relatively strong, yet removable join, so I decided to go that route.

Firing up the glue gun!!

With the brackets all painted up and the glue gun ready to go, it was time to put those babies in there!

Brackets glued in place

After a few tries, I managed to get the two brackets in place. Being a bit OCD about such things, it took me a few tries to get both brackets lined up "perfectly"!

The pump popped into place just perfect in the "dry run", i.e., on the stands, so I figured I'd better give it a more "real" test. I laid the boat on the ground and did an entry. No problems. No hooking on the pump as I pushed my arse into the seat. Likewise, no problems with exiting the boat.

Next test - layback on the deck!! One concern was that, maybe, the pump would be in the way of an layback rolls!!!  All fears were allayed when I put my back right back on the aft deck. Albeit, one temp bracket join let go when I put too much pressure on it (remember the hot glue ins only a temporary fix)  but otherwise there should be no issues!!

Actually, the foam on the pump and its placement make a comfy back rest. Is it possible to kill two birds with one stone when you really only wanted to slaughter the one??? 

Pump in place. Fwd view.

Pump in place. Aft view.

The last step is to try this in the "real world"  but I'm pretty confident that all will work out just fine. And having one more piece of safety equipment on board can't be all that bad.

Thanks for dropping by,

Sean

Black Pearl Project - Get out of my house, Boat!!

Does anybody remember the song by the Shuffle Demons, "Get out of my house, roach"? Well. that's how I've been feeling lately about this project. Work on the boat slowed to a snail's crawl as I waited for paint to dry and while I finished off the loose ends, like the end caps.  Today, I decided that it was time to give'er the boot!!

For many (most) people removing the boat from the building area is simply a matter of flinging open a garage door or opening a basement window. But when you build an 18' 6" boat in an attic, removal tends to be much more of a production!! After supper I prepared the boat for it's send off, i.e., took it off the table, moved the table out of the way (which involved moving bits of drum kit), shifted a whack of crap and even had to remove a stud from the knee wall!!

Table shifted, boat tossed to one side!!

With the aid of Cheryl and Paddy we managed to get it down the stairs - it JUST barely fit. If not, I would've had to cut a header off the stair well. I'm glad that it went well!! 

Out the front window. Anybody following my blog for the past year will recognize this scene!!

The "hand off" to the ground crew!!

Bridget showing the lay back capabilities of the low back deck. Having a spine with only 12 years on it is a benefit too!! 

And now for some mandatory "in the garden" shots!!

Finally, an accurate representation of the foam seat and bed liner colours!! Very hard to do in the attic with a flash.

On the rocks!

On the rocks again!!

Finally a good "topside" shot!!

Nice profile shot!!

I was planning on doing a blog entry on the end caps but I got lazy!! Here's the condensed version. I decided to use squash balls as the end caps - as per the designer's suggestion. Although Bjorn Thomasson suggests the use of squash balls, I've not seen them actually used - other than on his own boat. I think they look fine. I simply cut the ball open, filled it with thickened epoxy and pushed it on over the end of the boat. I should point out that I drove a screw into each end with a little of the head left out. This provided something extra for the epoxy fuse around. These two screws are the only pieces of metal in the entire boat!!

Bow end cap - yep, that's a squash ball!!

Toggles at work!

I like to wear my love of my home province on my sleeve. And when not on my sleeve, I wear it on the bow of my kayaks!! It all started several years ago when Cheryl gave me a Republic of Newfoundland sticker for my Baffin - which I proudly displayed on my bow. When I built my Point Bennett, she bought me another one and I put that on my bow. When I built my skin on frame,  Cheryl bought me another sticker but the stitch line on the fabric did not make placement easy, so the sticker languished on my computer desk. When I decided to build the Black Pearl, it was a given that the sticker would end up on the bow. And it did!!!

The Republic of Newfoundland tri-colour!!

The boat is here in the living room with me now as I do the last bit of lashing on a paddle park. Tomorrow evening, hopefully, it'll hit the ocean!!

Thanks for dropping by,

Sean

Black Pearl Project - Rolling the (fake) bones

I've been trying to determine how I'd make deck toggles for a few days now. I was originally going to go with wood but then an idea came to me - how about trying CPVC pipe?  It's sorta bone-like in colour and easy to work with - plus I had a piece in the shed!!!  Good enough reasons to give it a try.  I'm starting to dig the look.  And the Maroske fittings are the real cat's ass!!!

I'll admit that this boat, while based on a Greenland design, is not a traditional boat, so why confine myself to notion that it needs to look like one?

Anyway, the building of these toggles was very straightforward - cut the pipe to length, drill a hole in each end and then put it to the bench grinder to angle the ends. A little touch up sanding and we're good to go!!

You will also notice in the pictures below that opted for the truck bed liner on the foredeck where the deck lines (bungees) are located. Looks fine to me.

No captions required for these images as they are pretty self explanatory.

Next stops are the foam foot brace, attaching the seat (with velcro until I determine that it is exactly how I want it) and then actually attaching the deck lines.